Etichub

Etichub Discusses Sustainable Cosmetics at the “Small Talks on Sustainability” Roundtable

Etichub participated in the roundtable “Small Talks on Sustainability” at the tenth edition of the Skin Summer School, where the topic of sustainable cosmetics was discussed.
This international cosmetics school, organized by the University of Pavia under the guidance of Professor Perugini, focused this year on the relationship between innovation and sustainability in the cosmetics industry.

Co-founder Dr. Bleve joined other representatives from industry companies: Roelmi HPC, ActiveBox, and PCP for the raw materials sector; Coslab and Artcosmetics as contract manufacturers; and finally, Istituto Ganassini, a brand company, all under the expert eye of the congress president.


How Is the Theme of Sustainable Cosmetics Expressed Globally?

How is the topic of sustainable cosmetics interpreted around the world? How is the issue perceived outside Europe, from the Far East to the African continent?
This was the initial question posed by the audience, which fueled the entire discussion and provided a cascade of different perspectives on sustainable cosmetics.

What quickly became clear is that today, Europe, already a global leader in cosmetics, is pioneering sustainability. In fact, its advantageous position can drive government initiatives to promote clarity and regulation on the subject. In short, the ecological and social awareness push from consumers is already being acknowledged by the industry in the old continent, which must now play a decisive role.
However, this remains a Eurocentric view: in less developed countries, other priorities inevitably overshadow the issue.

On the other hand, the global scenario is uneven: in South America, especially in Brazil, there is a strong focus on environmental sustainability. The great natural biodiversity and the desire to preserve a vast and heterogeneous natural heritage drive attention and sensitivity on the topic. In Asia, the social dimension of sustainability seems to prevail, manifested in the concepts of poverty alleviation and the elimination of disparities in benefits among social classes.


How to Manage an Increasingly Interconnected Global Cosmetics Supply Chain?

It would be nice to have a clear answer, but such a thing does not yet exist. The world is a network: this is the reality. Everything influences another, and even the process, product, or service currently untouched by the idea of sustainable cosmetics will soon be affected by this cyclone.

In general, one could try to find an approach that, step by step, encompasses all aspects of sustainability while keeping in mind the three Ps: planet, people, and profit. This means re-evaluating every phase of the cosmetic supply chain, every process, and any potential waste. Here, the conversation ignited around raw materials. The disposal of expired ingredients is now a critical aspect: some companies are establishing partnerships with universities or research institutions to use them for educational purposes, while others offer them in economically advantageous exchanges. This led to a new question.


And Safety?

The safety of cosmetics can never be called into question. Cosmetics are safe by definition, as emphasized by all participants. Moreover, they hold incredible social value. Each of us uses them daily. Estimates suggest that each person applies an average of eight products a day. Far from being an ephemeral good, they are allies that help us navigate life better.
The Packaging Situation?
From this axis, the dialogue then shifted to another hot and interconnected topic: consumer education regarding all aspects related to the product, particularly sustainability today more than ever.
In this field, discussing education should be mandatory: the complexity of the issue deserves clarity and information to transform it into something that goes beyond a passing trend. Informed consumers, equipped with transparent information and effective, truthful communication, should be enabled to find products that may be less appealing but have a more positive impact on the environment and society. This sentiment takes on the characteristics of a slogan, highlighting the desire of industry professionals to give the right attributes to products.


The Weight of Innovation

However, some dissent from the unified line and reiterate that not all consumers converge on sustainability topics. A significant portion remains firmly anchored in the pursuit of high-performance cosmetic products. Others call for the search for new raw materials that merge both aspects. It is here that innovation and sustainability must meet, where the true formulation challenge lies. This challenge can only be managed through healthy relationships within the supply chain between producers and distributors of raw materials and formulators through mutual information exchange.

Some participants also emphasize, in connection with consumer education, how this is related to corporate social responsibility: the effort must be to act sustainably and promote sustainable information that provides the tools for better end-of-life product management. Often, the lack of clarity on terms and definitions does not help.


The Packaging Situation?

Packaging is often one of the victims of this confusion among concepts that seem synonymous but are not. Just consider the terms “recyclable,” “recycled,” “biodegradable,” “biobased,” and “sustainable.” While it is true that the container is one of the first apparent elements to measure the product’s ecological footprint, despite significant efforts made, participants acknowledge that we may not yet be ready for true change. Compatibility, product safety, and real alternatives to new materials still require study. An approach change is needed, but even today, companies are taking their time to understand how the situation evolves in terms of packaging.


What Are the Possible Scenarios?

It seems that today, working with a saving perspective is the most immediate and feasible scenario for companies. Focusing on improving raw material flows, limiting stocks, and consolidating production could provide consumers with some initial truthful information. Telling the story of sustainability remains problematic. There is still no defined advertising dimension. While there is an unequivocal legislative reference for cosmetic claims (Reg. 655/2013), the declaration of sustainable cosmetics is lacking, although some movement seems to be occurring.


And So?

Taking proactive measures, anticipating regulation, and establishing new approaches seem to be the right path for companies. Defining a virtuous process is possible, indeed necessary. This will provide a competitive advantage, allowing the Italian and European cosmetics industries to lead the way while managing economic sustainability aspects without hypocrisy.
Some participants do not fail to point out another key element: sharing information is essential. Disseminating know-how is challenging, but it can indeed lead to the development of more sustainable cosmetics. Only through widespread knowledge can we approach progress.
This was a worthy conclusion to a roundtable that sparked insights and debates, with active participation from all present.

Now, we can only wait for the 2023 edition!

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